Hi Guys.

Ever since i was a kid (12) i liked rc cars. I got a couple of cheap tamiya rtr cars back then but always wanted a nitro.

Now i'm 22 and earning i decided to buy myself something cheap for me to mess around with, so it's not too big a deal if i break it..... And it's a good job i got a cheap one!

Its an Acme Condor Pro, and i took it out for the first time today. Discovered a few issues while i was there:

1. It's a nightmare to start, although the glow plug seems fine.
2. The turning circle is rediculous. I cant even turn it around in my road.
3. It's made from cheese which i suppose isn't suprising.
4. When i brake the engine cuts out, and i have no idea how to stop this, although i've sorted the tuning at high speed.
5. At idle it either starts running forward or stalls depending on how i trim the throttle on the controller.

Sorry to be all doom and gloom in my first post but i'm just looking for a little help and advice. I've also bent the bulkhead and one shock already! Hence the made of cheese part.

Thanks for any advice! :)

i had the same promblems myself !
im quite new to this game and my advice is
1stick to well known brands
2always run your engine in (i found out the hard way)
3ask the guys on this site for advice lol :thumbs_up:

chris

it's semi run in anyway (second hand), i just need to treat it nicely for a couple of tanks. my next perchase provided i like this one is a Rex X which looks the dogs for £185. i'm hoping the guys on here will tell me to do somthing and all my problems will be solved......................

and i dont mean sell!

the rex X does look the nuts mate :cool2:

welcome to the site mate :)

"4. When i brake the engine cuts out, and i have no idea how to stop this, although i've sorted the tuning at high speed.
5. At idle it either starts running forward or stalls depending on how i trim the throttle on the controller."

that sounds like problem with either linkages or low speed needle setting

i can't see a low speed needle anywhere, there's an idle but i cant get it to stop to adjust it!

when i brake, the carb completely shuts, so it looks like there's no air getting into the engine, is that right? doesn't seem it to me!

should have a low speed needle on side of carb


anyway no thats not right that the carb fully closes it should have a gap of around 1mm

you need to adjust your throttle stop screw.

if your not sure of the screws post a photo up and i'll tell you which is which

hope that helps

ah, so the spring that's attached to the throttle linkage is for when it reaches the throttle stop. would that be the screw that's sticking out of the carb?

i'll pop up some photos after my tea!

the spring fitted to the linkage is normally used for a 2nd failsafe returning the throttle to closed position if servo power is lost

and yes the throttle stop screw is normally the one sticking outside of the carb

Just one quick question....

Where you from ????

just dont bother with the cheapo imported makes go for established manafacturers and you will find life a lot easy and cheaper in the long run!!!

buying new what seems like a bargain often works out very expensive and difficult to source spares ..................... dont say you havnt been warned


some nice estblished companys :


tamiya
thunder tiger
hobao
HPI
schumacher
FG
Kyosho
hotbodies
team losi
mugen

erm ive run out any one else know of any more??

There is an air filter i've just taken it off to show you, and it's also in the process of being cleaned.

I'm guessing the screw sticking out of the carb is the throttle stop?

Anyone fancy annotating the image for me? :unsure:

Cheers

i'll swap back to pc and label up the carb for you

edit: here you go mate...

i'm from chester by the way!

OK, the reason i asked was in case you were close to the Bash area, we could have helped you out personally then on sunday.

But, people are coming from further away than Chester, so...

If you fancy coming, check out the Bash Thread.


:thumbs_up: :thumbs_up: :thumbs_up:

i'm actually over in loughborough on fri/sat so might pop down.

i think i've got my head around the carb set up now tho, although not sure what to do about turning radius/starting it!

where's the thread for the bash? i can't find it!

cheers

steering sounds like needs adjusting maybe moving the link rod out a hole on servo horn if poss. or maybe you have epa (end point adjustment) on your transmitter then you could adjust that

link to bash thread...
http://rc-racing.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=3052&st=0

I had one of those buggys and couldn't get a decent turning circle out of it.
If your using the transmitter that came with the buggy then you won't have EPA, instead just check that the trimming is central.
Like Matt said one way might be to get a different servo horn.

If you email the guy at this site he can help, he knows the buggy inside out, and is the main supplier in this country.

Just checked the site and WOW, 1/5 petrol RTR £300 awesome! Their practically forcing me to buy one at that price.

If you look at the top right there is a "contact us" link:
http://www.nitrotek.co.uk/XRC2.htm

Starting: take the fuel pipe of the exhaust nipple, blow down it until you see fuel enter the carb. Attatch the glow starter a pull the chord.
If the chord gets hard to pull take the glow plug out dry it off and turn the buggy upside down and pull the chord this should expel the fuel. Then try the above again.
If the chord doesn't get harder to pull and it doesn't start, blow down the fuel pipe again.

It will be simple once you get the hang of it. If you email the guy at that link, he could tell you everything.

If it's those 1/5 Touring cars you like I'll do you a new in box one at bash £250
:thumbs_up:


Or was it the off roader in which case you can see an MT up close on Sunday, but I ain't selling :D


And I can bring a boxed acme condor pro with books to compare as well :thumbs_up:

Looks like you almost have the whole collection there.
I've wanted a petrol car before but i have no where to run one. :(
Hate to out do your generosity but their selling used as well. If you scroll down you will find an ex demo car £190!
http://www.nitrotek.co.uk/reduced.php

Nice, that Buggies worth it if you can't run to a Marder for bashing about.
:thumbs_up:

that 1/5 car is a bargain at £189 hmmm if i had some money id be very tempted

Now i aint being funny again, but...

After seeing what you get for your Hard Earned Money at the last Bash....

I'll carry on Saving and Buy a FG, Carson, HPI.

Seriously, (Sorry if this Upsets Rich) After seeing Rich's at the last Bash, i wouldn't beg one. It was Pants !!!! No go and it Ripped a Tyre open !!! WTF, wasn't even gunning it or rough.

As has been said a thousand times on This Forum and Many more on 99% of the Other Forums.....

You Get What You Pay For !!!!!!!


Just Save for an extra Month, 2 Months, 3 Months, Whatever.

And Buy a Proper Built/Designed 1/5th Scale Buggy/Car.


:thumbs_up: :thumbs_up: :thumbs_up:

As they say in Budweiser World: TRUE!!! :joker: :joker: :joker:

russ i have to disagree, i was pretty impressed with it, ok couple of things did go wrong but for what you get for the money i think its a good buy and i would prob buy one

Matt...

What Wouldn't you Buy these days !!!!!

It seems, with your Buying Spree last month...

This month your gonna have to Spend a Few Grand just to Beat last months Buying Total!!!!!!!


:joker: :joker: :joker:


Oh and i stand by what i said.


:thumbs_up: :thumbs_up: :thumbs_up:

It says £15 for a wheel+tire which is cheaper than a buggy wheel+tire.

Have to say i'm not suprised it didn't go fast the thing must weigh a tonne. They do sell larger spurs which should give you slightly better accelaration. I believe the best of the best petrol r/c cars only hit 60mph.
How fast does it go?
Just looked at the price of one of those 23cc engines £99.99. :joker:

I still fancy one of their petrol buggys though running costs are loads cheaper than my nitro. If i ran it instead of my nitro after two weeks i would save about £100. Unless the thing fell apart which my buggy never does.

Having spoken to the man himself at Nitrotek about another matter today, he has a XRC TC and Buggy and a shenqui MT which is what my new one is, but he's saving for an FG MT, and this is his words, XRC engines have inferior ignitions and look the same, more torque but rev out at 13,000, he reckons an FG does over 20,000RPM, now I stand to be corrected as none of mine have rev counters but the MT certainly doesn't seem to rev anyhthing like the FG Artic I will say.

It says that it only revs to 12,000 on the site . They say the one you have does 80kph.
They want £210 for the engine that's in it. The whole truck only costs £340! :joker:
I heard MCD make decent engines. i know they make a decent kit.
http://modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=Show...on&ItemID=26889

I know next to nothing about petrol r/c's though. The XRC is probably the best place to start.

i will have to say that i was very dissapointed with the nitrotek engines, iv now had a total of 4 so far, the latest one has had a new piston and sleeve cus they lose compression very easy in my opinion, and iv had my 1:8 gs racing buggy and my ts4n car and i giv them death yet thay seem to start all the time no probs,

my local rc shop has himself brought a 1:5 off nitrotek anbd said himself top end they go like hell but there are very sluggish bottom end so unles you take it down the strip and santapod they aint that good, and now he has sold it to get buy the baja which he sayd are allot more impressive,

iv got the landcross pro from nitrotek, the chassis etc i have no probs with but the engines are a nitemare

The first nitro off road I got was an acme conquistador MT fom a guy, I sold it to a lad at work and his son's been trying to break it for nearly 2 years, thats a team infinity engine and he killed a schumacher big six, but the acme goes forever, sounds like you just got a real bad run.
The Shen qui accelarates like hell if you tune it right,had a play tuning it today, quite fiddly balancing low rev mixture against the tickover but once it's right it flies, just runs out of top end too soon, where the FG keeps going, 2 speed box called for I think :D
As to engines, apart from TC been laid down and truck upright mounting they are apparently identical?
Although they quote on site as being a 26 rather than 23, and towerhobbies do the duratrax version quoted as a 27 so who knows?
One advantage the TC will take an FG engine straight in, MT would be a bit more fiddly.

Hey Guys,

Finally got my car sorted after a bit of messing about today, now starts 2nd pull (well did last time i was out) runs ok but not quick enough to get into 2nd gear, i think i need some more tuning but having had a close look there is only one needle valve to adjust, no low speed, just high speed. When i lean the mixture it has issues starting tho, or turns over for half a second then stops. Also got the idle sorted so i can now use the brakes!

I think the steering servo is mullered coz it clicks when i try turn right as if there's a tooth missing, so may have to replace that. Also the plastic gears on the gearbox (on the driveshaft) have shredded, which has put pay to me coming to the meet tomorrow! So unless anyone has a spare set of gears for it i'll have to say i'm out unfortunately! :(

Will hope to make another one/meet up with anyone who's in the NW who knows what they're doing!

Matt showed you where the low speed needle was.
If it's not on the side he arrowed it will be on the other side of the carb where the linkage rod is attatched.
Are there screws on both sides of the carb. If so only ever adjust one, the low speed needle.
Don't adjust the mid range needle they are set at the factory and never need adjusting. Usually they are set flush with the crankcase.

tim might be able to sort you out with parts.

and i can certainly tune the engine for you :thumbs_up:

Come along and I'll bring mine as well, we can compare the 2 and I have plenty servos to do the job,sounds like the gears wren't meshed right either
:thumbs_up:

As a bit of newbie myself I woud say you should definately still come along. The guys helped me out loads last time and there's alway plenty of free advice on tap, and lots of laughter to go with it. They guys taught me loads at the last bash and sometimes it's hard to concentrate on your own kit/cars as there's so much other stuff going on to take an interest in. :clap: :clap:

A few of us will be behind video cameras for part of the day and I know I still need some help with my Hyper PBS set-up. And due to the breakages a few spent a lot of time trying to get stuff going again. :joker: :joker:

Which bits is it i need then tim?

Both the gears have stripped now!

www.nitrotek.co.uk
Product ID: 30125
Product ID: 30126
possibly if you want all 4 gears
Product ID: 30127
and these depend on new or old gearbox
Product ID: 30136
Product ID: 30137
but i think yours is old one
ring and order then you can make sure at time
far as I can tell :thumbs_up:

cool i'll give then a call tomorrow morning in the hope that i'll be up and running again by tues/wed sometime!

thanks again for all you help today, and to everyone else :D